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Workshop Notes

SHOPPING LIST 

  • Scouring: Soda Ash ( or soda crystals ) 
  • Scouring: Eco-Friendly, PH Neutral Soap (Un-perfumed - Non Citrus)
  • Mordanting: Tannin Powder - Oak Gall powder 
  • Mordanting: Potassium Aluminium Sulphate

OVERVIEW OF THE PROCESS

  1. Understand the fibre you are working with
  2. Prepare fibre by "scouring"
  3. Mordant fibre 
  4. Gather or forage for dye material
  5. Set up dye baths
  6. Dye fibre 
  7. Wash & aftercare

SCOURING

  • Plant fibre: 1tsp of soda ash or 1 tbsp of soda crystals per 100 grams (4 ounces) of fibre. 
  • Animal fibre: 1/2 tsp of detergent per 100 grams (4 ounces) of fibre. 

MORDANTING

  • Plant fibre: Use 1tsp of tannin ( oak gall or any plant mordant ) for every 100g (3.5-4 oz) of fibre.
  • Animal fibres use 2tsp of Alum for every 100g of fibre.

WATER

  •  Roughly about 5 ltrs. of water for every 100g fibre.

 DYE MATERIAL

  • Dye Stuff: Equal weight of fibre (after fibre has been scoured) to plant dye. If you're dyeing a set of linen napkins and they weigh 100g then use 100g of plant material. If you would like lighter shades, use half this & for stronger colours double the weight of fibre. Of course there will always be exceptions to this as some dyes will be stronger and more concentrated that others.

ALWAYS PRE-SOAK BEFORE MORDANTING & DYEING

  • A note on weighing fibre: In natural dying you will see W.O.F, meaning weight of fibre. This is based on the weight of the fibre or fabric to be dyed after it has been scoured & dried. 

MODIFIERS

  • Modifiers: Use 1 tsp of liquid modifier to 1 litre of water. 

EXAMPLES OF SOME DYE PLANTS

YELLOWS: Bracken, Dyers Chamomile, Coreopsis, Fustic, Goldenrod, Osage, Pomegranate, Rhubarb, Tansy, Turmeric, Weld, Yarrow, Yellow Onion.

ORANGE: Rhubarb, Madder, Cutch, Eucalyptus

GREEN TONES: Comfrey, Golden rod, Ivy, Nettle, Red Onion, Sunflower, Weld

BLUE: Indigo, Woad, Elderberry with iron mordant, Blackberry with iron mordant

BLACK: Logwood with iron or tannin rich dyes or mordants with iron mordant. (ex: oak gall with iron, walnut with iron) 

PINKS & REDS: Avocado, Safflower, Cutch, Madder, Lady's Bedstraw, Brazilwood, Hibiscus, Birch, St. John's Wort

BROWN: Black Tea, Cutch, Oak Galls, Walnut, Coffee, Alder, Acorns

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

https://www.kathryndavey.com/blogs/news/natural-dye-resources 

https://www.kathryndavey.com/blogs/news/how-to-care-for-your-naturally-dyed-goods 

Eco-fabric suppliers:

Eco- Yarns U.K: